Christian Mengel

first go but I did it in 2009...trying to get used to Mortar sharpness...Impossible Wall should be doable...

had no rubber and chalk marks so I guess I faed it...third arete on the block, as good as the other ones!

simply stunning! crimpy compression to a big move to a jug at mid height...followed by a hard and scary shoulder move difficult to match and a you-can-fall-there topout up high over a medium landing...CLASSIC!

cool warm up with one bigger move...

nice one! sloper to crimpers to a big reach...tops out...an entire block full of rad problems directly next to the road...why is nobody else cleaning stuff?

a little bit of everything...same start as Nasenbär, so no flash!

amazing arete...with a big move on top as a bonus...

unfortunately defined...cool dyno nevertheless...

quality sloper compression...

amazing movements, even though it´s a tad defined inasmuch as that you need to use the HEINOUS crimpers...2nd. ascent after Rambo, never thought I could pull the holds but then did it in less than 10 goes..."if we can climb it in a day, it can´t be harder!"

cool compression...2nd. ascent? can´t do Rambo´s method for the mantle so I had to come up with some tall person beta...heel hooks for the win!

the original was just contrived...using all the good holds, it´s easy...re-faed it if anyone cares...

cool arete...starts with a left hand pinch and a poor sloper at hip height...

cool highball...needs more ascents...

tricky arete...took a couple of goes...second ascent!

really cool roof compression...just went for it and got it...a BRCM must do!

sharpish! flapper time...second ascent...

second ascent after Rambo...feels hard but the taller you are, the harder it will feel...

links up Aff beim Scheissn and Filmriss...took quite a construction to get this one done, will prolly bolt it as soon as my exams are finished...Filmriss Extension and Comptine Extension remain...

"Something is wrong with the car, could you guys check?"felt effortless today, all it took was a proper foot placement...psyched to have wrapped it up before the system moves in...low 7c seems right on...never 7c+, that much is certain...quality moves, even though it´s quite my anti style...

settles at 7a+ imho...gotta keep things consistent...5 tries on Cosmic ending with footslips at the top...another one turning into a mental battle...here we go...

Wellenreiter extension...fight or flight! in one pitch, as it´s meant to be!

unfortunately doesn´t top out...has a big shoulder move...2nd. ascent after Rambo...

cool compression, unfortunately very low...almost blew the flash at the top...

sharp! might be way harder for people with less wing span...

cool compression moves...cleaned it and got the 2nd. ascent after Rambo...really wanted this one! SHARP!

cool compression to a nice mantle...could be 6A+ but I´m hesitant about that...starts with a sloper at the arete and a sidepull crimper, the big jug 30 cm further right from the arete is off since it completely spoils the moves!

start as Sangre Sani and traverse left to a mantle in the shallow dihedral...

links Explosion SD into Papillon...13 moves of power endurance...

"But down these mean streets a man must go, who is not himself mean, who is neither tarnished nor afraid!"In its present state, the problem´s first move is SERIOUSLY dabby! It took about a hundred tries to stick it without touching the pad, so if anybody wants to try it before I have removed the stone consider your ethics and do it the same way!

cool one...nice video shooting session, waiting for some cool footage!

nice new one at L´oasif...to the left of Gravies Cimes...cool slab to a juggy roof to a deceptive chains clip...me gusta!

pretty cool one, as I remembered!

dispatched first go after working out the moves yesterday...totally RAD, so much my style...I just love this roof!

tried it last time...shouldn´t have...did it placing the draws today...cool overhanging compression crux!

I just love this roof...repeated Action discrete for pics...shape is ON!

blew the onsight at the chains...cool one...clipping the chains is part of a route...deal with it!

my anti style...nice dihedral crack to a hard finish...down to the wire...

finally put that heinous crimper boulder at the top down...

basically one vicious dynamic pocket pinch move which went from feeling impossible to very doable...sharpish and cool! got myself some ropeburn to remember it...

C´est chouette, cette voie...

slabby and fingery!

links Plus jamais into El fuego de la muerte...had to do something and since some IDIOT took the first two bolts of El...and took means stolen, it´s not closed!

a nice overhanging intro of four bolts followed by some trickier slab moves...had excellent beta, so flashing this felt quite easy...

sharp, explosive and SO RAD! every move on this one is classic! VERY PSYCHED I pulled it of today, especially since I´ve been mostly focusing on enduro routes this year! on to the next one!

nice warm up...

cool roof moves...so close on my onsight go...doesn´t get three stars because it´s not that good lookin´...suggesting 7a for this is just straight whack!

nice warm up...

first pitch...will return for the full one!

world class monster of a traversing resistance pitch! best 7a I´ve done...

world class resistance pitch!

slightly marred by its broken chains...

cool warm down...

cool pumpy traverse...quality moves but slightly contrived line...

SERIOUSLY run out...

AMAZING resistance pitch!

had to do it again...

nice one! doesn´t bail out into any no hand rests, my two cents!

can´t teach an old dog new tricks but the old ones still do the job...redispatched first go since putting it up in 2007...

cool resistance one, done with the sector!

"You rise, you fall, you´re down, then you rise again...what don´t kill ya will make ya more strong"...unfortunately the middle section is quite chossy...nice moves from the pinch clip onwards aka where the game really starts...shook out, kept breathing and pulled through...cool day up there! THANKS Hans and Rambo!

horribly sharp! add freezing fingers and well...took some time...

pretty damn good...as sharp as it can get but the moves are really good! no chalk marks, no rubber, just 40 metres of grey alpine limestone...

Ceüseian...INCREDIBLE ONE!

took more goes than any other Pointner route I´ve done...has the crimpers from hell...can you say anti-style? had to do Goaßn and Sichel again for compensation...

pumpy and athletic...sharp as hell at times!

pretty cool one, nice moves and holds...

cool resistance pitch with two bouldery cruxes...yay for second go sends, having resistance is kinda cool ;)

actually a lot better than I was told...some quality pocket moves but most def. not 6c! repeats of Goaßn, Blutwurz and both Melissengeist cruxes solved...good day!

fingery and sharpish...took three goes because I´m counting the one on which the crimper broke after the first bolt...

not as good as Sichel or Goaßn but close...should have and really wanted to do it second go but managed to have my foot slip from the biggest foothold in the entire thing...lowered down and sent it third go...really in love with resistance routes right now!

AMAZING resistance pitch with a red point crux up high...skipped the last bolt...hand foot match for the win! SO GOOD!

completely worked...pretty cool one, skipped the bad holds...fell four times after sticking both dynos on my proj...HARD TIMES! "I won´t flash it anyway cause I don´t give a damn!"

short and some painful pockets...

cool arete sorta thing...two hard moves down low, then jugs all the way...

damn little fucker! it´s all about finding that pinch to clip the chains...almost decked two times...I guess overall it deserves to be called soft since finding the pinch is essentially the crux...

psyched I pulled it off today as soon as the first dead point clicked after working it last time...hard boulder to some pump to another boulder...pretty desperate beta on the second one...skipped the bad holds on the lower one as usual, big moves rule!

put in the draws for Tom to flash it...one of the best 6cs ever!

prolly the best 7a I´ve done...psyched I could climb today after a horrible night due to the chocolate choking incident...the better half of the day, Swabian mofos at Weißenstein...

pretty cool warm up...STEEP thuggin`!

one really hard move, drop that knee! cool one!

completely down to the wire...after almost choking myself on chocalate milk...PSYCHED I fired it, about 12 moves of raw pulling, kinda hard to climb bouldery routes if you can´t breathe properly...

years of non stop action have definately spiced this one up a little ...pumpy as hell with all the polish and today´s heat! finally slayed the dragon, now on to other things...

quality resistance pitch with a cool boulder section after the bucket rest...finally it was dry enough to do it...fell moving to the jug pocket on my first go today, then kept it together...my style! "no, you WON`T block my project for an hour, you retard!"

took three miserable goes...way to slabby for my liking...actually I don´t like it AT ALL...

goal for today: check! best Pointner route besides Blutwurz so far! world class moves on mainly pinches and pockets, even has a mono, what more can I ask for?

YES! FINALLY stuck that last move! SICK one, my style..."never give up!"

basically onsighted it but I did the direct version before...this doesn´t count...cool pumpy traverse!

pumpy...ultra classic...

steep thugging on good holds...some polish, but hey, it´s still a good one...

FA Kurt Albert 1980...damn CLASSIC and it deserves to be!

really cool, the whole rig, pitch one and two! quality line and moves!

a tad too low...nice roof moves, though

cool little dynamic roof, my style...quite an, uhm, adventurous day...

pockets...more pockets...I approve!

30 metres with a little bit of everything, pockets, crimpers, jugs and quality moves all the way...felt like I was getting a cold when I arrived but the feeling passed and I did it after putting in the draws...considering it´s really techy at times, I´m psyched!

pretty cool...boulder to pockets to a slabby finish...

not as pumpy as Mirto, should have onsighted it...cool one!

personally I don´t think it´s harder than Mirto, the crux, that is clipping the chains from the undercling, is just really my anti style...nice mid section on pockets...

this one is RAD...powerful on amazing pockets with a tiny crimper crux at the end where you have to go all in...VERY HAPPY I could pull it of second go...

good rock...don´t like the moves to much, though...

classic old skool pocket pulling, FA by WoGü himself!

total class...prolly makes it into my top five of the grade...

direct start to direct top...holy motherflippin` pump! Weißenstein has the most sandbagged grading ever...RAD SHIT!!!

not as good as Schlaffsack...shouldn´t have missed the onsight...damn you guys for blocking my proj. all the time!

techy and tricky to a surprisingly pumpy finish!

not the best rock and not half as impressive as the ones I did before...

pinchy, pumpy and fun! feels more like 6c to me but who knows...

pretty new I guess, still needs some cleaning...

bouldery crux followed by some serious pump...took a few pretty nasty falls working that balancy crux at the third bolt...

total class and amazing features...pumpy!

YES! so much my style! RAD!

burly...climbable in today´s conditions, that is hideous heat...basically a 7A+ roof compression boulder followed by an easier outro...don´t think it warrants 7c just for being low percentage but I´m tall and roof compression is really my thing...

pretty cool one with two big move cruxes...in one pitch, as it should be done...I´m a lucky bastard!

psyched I can do something so much my anti style as a trainer...hopped on for the first time ever since putting it down and cruised it...

put in the draws, Hans flashed it..."I ´ve seldom seen it that dry!"

first bolt after about 12 metres...class climbing with VERY spaced bolts...kinda warms up both muscles and mind...

psyched to have pulled it of third go since my second go got me PUMPED and the greasy holds didn´t help either...cut my feet, got them on again and pulled through..."it´s just Dala!"

pretty spaced bolts, pretty tensiony moves...should have onsighted it but hey, I just lack the guts...

pumpy warm up...done with the crag, finally!

pretty cool...done as a clean up job!

can´t visit the crag without doing this one...my first Frankenjura 7b back in the days...Tom: "I don´t wanna try it anymore, all I can think about is food right now!"

the epitomy of Frankenjura climbing, short, sharp and explosive on bad pockets...decided not to go with www.frankenjura.com´s 7c upgrade for this one...had two goes in 2009 and it clicked pretty soon after putting in the draws today... I don´t think I could pull a Frankenjura 7c that fast...but it´s my style and getting really savage on the send go felt awesome!

pretty cool, as I remembered

three times today, training/having a fun day out...repeats of Equitus and Wellenreiter again...feels good to feel the endurance building up!

pretty cool that I can still do it as a warm up after 4 consecutive days of climbing...

took one go to remember it, pretty good enduro trainer...completely WRECKED after 4 straight days of climbing...rest day comin´up!

for sure not 7a for a guy of my size but it´s really morpho...good training day!

links Aschenputtel into Stinkefinger after the second to last bolt...best version!

9 pitches out of which I led 6...some pretty amazing pitches intersparsed with some grassier ones...psyched to have learned A LOT from Michi, Markus and Achim! "I would jump test this nut!"

it was bound to happen...I fucked up the slab :)

really good, fun moves and quite soft...

cool! nice pockets to a dicey mantle...

the crux is all about things I can´t do...gaston a pocket instead of just pulling on it? I don´t even think of that...at least not until I´ve tried pulling a couple of times...

polished...the top slab has fun moves!

hard as nails...crimpy!

some good jug pulling...failed to see the crimpers on my onsight try...oh my...pretty seepy today!

another one done...start with two opposing sidepulls and pull into the crack...climb slightly right to a drop off jug...anybody willing to clean the top out?

short but surprisingly pumpy to the anchors...

bouldery little route, took a BIG whipper on my third go with the jug in my hand when the fifth draw unclipped and kinda dismissed it for today...then dispatched! that one came as a surprise...

surprisingly good...nice warm up!

aka Sabs´s project...quality warm up! we´re in peril!

sharpish and reachy...tried a couple of sequences and they all pretty much work, depending on how tall you are...Joey and me agreed on 6B..."move those stones, you might hurt yourself!"

6c??? this doesn´t figure...soft 6b+ max!

pumpy...should have onsighted it, then screwed up two more goes...oh my...one of the harder 7as at the crag...

classy...didn´t see the Scorpio...best route I did at Sisyphos...

steep little tufa route...class!

cool endurance warm up in featured Dolomite...

best short warm up up there...

Rob´s direct version with two monos...I approve of the monos even though my skin didn´t like the second one too much...pinkie times!

classy dihedral with a crux up high...

quite an adventure...traversed to the belay of Blow Job as told by the old guide...didn´t see any new bolts as suggested by the new one...funny route!

a perfect little tufa line...solitude CAN be found in Arco during Easter Holidays...

uhm, dihedral...

felt kinda like coaching...didn´t get paid, though...

a polished pile...

one of the best cruiser lines I´ve climbed!

Full HD was on...seriously!

easy warm up...coaching without getting paid again..."the cold is coming from the inside"

so good!

another perfect tufa line!

pillow soft for 6c! good line and moves!

some nice roof thugging! harder than Briciola, so I´m keeping the 6c+ on this...

should have onsighted this...soft! heelhook, rock over and it´s done!

seems like I can onsight something if it´s my style...

had the dyno on my onsight but missed the top part...DAMN! stuck the dyno again, kept the top together and sent second go! SO GOOD and SO FUN!

pumpy...some steep thugging on good holds with a crimpy crux...should have onsighted it but failed to see the jug out right...my style!

A LOT harder than By Pass imho, 7a as it´s suggested by the guide is pretty much nonsense, dispatched third go! took a fall on my onsight go and severed my pants...tape for the win!

that one came as a surprise, but hey, onsighting is something that only happens on holiday...cool slightly overhanging power section to a fun roof boulder! love the crag, the river and the sub alpine ambiance, definately not my last visit to the area!

sharpish and crimpy...not my style! cool boulder nevertheless!

tried to campus it a couple of times...couldn´t hold the swing...put my foot up and did it...hard!

total class and hard as nails...

I tried this a lot during past visits but never figured it out since my feet always sucked...using Daniel´s and Joey´s high foot out right it clicked second go today...can´t see it as 6C+...especially not after going to Saustein right after...

superb!

redispatched first go...shape is on!

freezingly cold down at the river...three goes...classy compression roof boulder!

highball...don´t fall...lot´s of highballing and highball related talks today...this one feels safe and therefore okay...fun!

cool and high...not done, had cake and shandy, so let´s go bouldering!

6c??? if Sechsplosion is 6b? let´s say it´s 6b, 6b+ max and be done with it...class route!

class! pretty damn awesome...should have done Los Lochos second go but I was just so pumped after a long day...anyway: dug deep and it felt rad...THANKS CREW for an awesome day!

and suddenly it felt easy, knew I was gonna do it when I shook out at the crimpers...put the high foot up and did it...too much sika for three stars...anyway, possibly one of the best routes at the crag...after doing New Age Deluxe, I think soft 7c is appropriate for this one imho!

buck up for this move! missed it a couple of times and took some falls...fortunately, this actually means that I`m getting used to falling on pads again...Props to Ralf for the cleaning effort and Rob on the FA...

one of the better cruiser highballs I´ve climbed!

shoulder warm up with a left hand fingerlock...

warm up slab with more moves...

nice warm up...

nice compression

sweet compression! needs more ascents and cleaning!

second go...one hard move up high...

cleaned it over the past two weeks...all compression down low, then really crimpy...repeated it twice for lowdown and pics two days later, should clock in at mid 7A+...but with only two ascents that´s still pretty much a guess...thought Mike would flash it and he couldn´t do it...consensus via more repeats...one of my best FAs!

"Strangely, not only has it forgotten how to fly, it also seems to have forgotten that it has forgotten how to fly. Legend has it that a seriously worried kakapo will sometimes run up a tree and jump out of it, whereupon it flies like a brick and lands in a graceless heap on the ground." This bird is my hero!

fortunately this one stays dry...thought it would take quite a number of goes when I hang-dogged it, found a hook and it clicked third go...some cool compression moves...

vicious pocket crux...entirely my style...no dice on my onsight try, dug deep, dropped the knee and did it...the beginning of a good day!

finally did it! close last August with Mer, then I somehow stopped trying...pockets, crimpers, pinches and a sort of tufa...VERY HAPPY I bagged this nemesis! had a feeling it might click today and it did!

nice slots...good warm up...

skipping bolts and warming up...Gwag Rules is doable!

funny little pinch thing...not the best landing...

pretty awesome highball crack...second ascent after Rob who cleaned it and thus had the right to fa this amazing line...ends at the no hand rest in the middle of the wall, we climbed down on our fixed rope which Rob used to clean it...

nice and tricky pocket boulder...close on the full extension to Arbeit macht Krank...enduro game is on!

a MENTAL WAR comes to its end...now on to Filmriss Extension!

took one go to remember, then dispatched...first day after the cold, oh my!

pretty cool moves up an arete...wasted my onsight burn on icy fingers, checked it out, did it...quality route, watch the falcon shit...

not as slabby as it looks...close call on the grassy top part...

pumpy...very cool moves...the full thing is hard...did all the moves but sending this is a very different thing...

well, don´t think it´s 7b+ cause it´s not resistant enough for that but we´ll see what others say...personal mini foot slip epic...despite wet holds...yes!

old skool crimpers and dihedrals...nice day...hiked up in the snow, made a fire, climbed stuff, got wet, climbed some more! EPIC!

tricky...has been extended...a tad gritty...

good...athletic to a tricky boulder...has pockets! I like!

cool one...should have an intermediate anchor at the bucket rest...the whole thing is gonna be rad!

"When mountains speak, wise men listen"...fools just follow the path...

start on Bumblebee and traverse around the corner into Der Dronte Eduard...did it second go warming up before giving Phil more tries, so I was prolly just tired last time...didn´t even need to shake out...still use the OG sliding heel hook beta;)...can´t see why something like 6A max trav. linked into 6C trav. should bump up the grade...

good new one by Hub...not the best line but the moves are cool...I approve of the pocket crux!

fucked up the onsight and got pumped...classy...would maybe be three stars in my book if the first two bolts weren´t a tad weird...

I can´t flash a damn thing...fell from the mantle with my foot slipping from that GIANT pinch...

needs more cleaning, then it will be quite nice actually...tops out, that´s good

start with a left hand sidepull and the obvious pinch at head height...go right to an undercling pinch, then top out using the crimpers...needs more cleaning!

see comment for Mantelpavian...I so need to learn to flash, if only just to save skin!

WHAT? GRADE? maybe I climbed the wrong sequence but that one felt hard...the way I climbed it though makes it a class problem...

fun compression...topout was seeping, route climber shakeout, downclimb and chalk up skills prevail...first time bouldering with no tape on since my cartilage injury and things seem to be finally on the track to FULL recovery...YES! GOOD DAY!

quite possibly the best 6C+ I have climbed...you won´t find a better line in the Valley, Tahoe, Bishop or any Austrian area I have been to...high, powerful and hard!

tricky...fun day despite all the cuts...actually 7 routes that day...good!

"Cause I walk dead or alive, I waste my time whenever I like, I´m feeling okay, with my whiskey hangover"Rob saw it, Hans unlocked it...hard one mover sit down to an existing 6B+...compression...goes down to hard 7A+ with the new foothold...very psyched on the hard projects I worked on with Tom!

harder version of Sidewinder...contrived but a good trainer on crimpers, pinches and slopers...thought this would be harder but took it down quite quick...fun day out! hope the weather will last...

it´s old skool...get your crimpers on...one try in 2008, rechecked it, did it! I have cuts on almost every finger...need a rest day!

nice boulder followed by choss...did it cause it´s there and because I was foolish enough to check it out some time ago...three goes, project done, split my tip...

straight up to Alles auf Zucker...fun little compression

pain and misery...should have flashed it as to avoid another go...crappy thing, sector completed...

class traverse

...second go...punt of the day foot slip...grade?

tricky little number...was a bit wet...

should have flashed it...my technique sucks...ends straight in the middle of nowhere...not exactly a line...

tricky, athletic and fun to figure out!

classy arete...despite the rain...

Poorly/Mainly chipped a weird mix between compression moves, big lock offs and slabby precision...climbs well and is great fun in terms of moves...one finger shake out prevails...grading this is difficult...doesn´t feel like 7b+ to me but then, I don´t know right now, maybe France has made me a lot stronger...as for stars, it would be more if it wasn´t chipped...

one of the better 6as in the area...

fortunately I can skip that horrible crimper with a dyno...was too scared to commit on my onsight go because I thought I was gonna hit the ledge...class rock and class moves!

as a treat to finish the trip...early bird catches the worm...love the one finger sinker pocket and the whole sector of epic roof pulling followed by these rad headwalls...I wish I could take l´oasif home!

the full onsight experience...crimping, some monos, some pump, some desperation, a much needed rest point...so psyched to get this onsight!

techy and slightly overhung pocket perfection...sweet to do this first go, still remembered the sequence...the start is straight up, traversing into from T'as pas un nom? is cheating and avoiding a big pocket move!

tricky! and so good...

big moves in the roof to a boulder crux at the lip followed by a nice overhung headwall where I took a quite unexpected whipper due to being so pumped...Mr. Metal had to dig a lot deeper than on Ils ont marche...so I´ll go with 7b+...nice to bag something despite my failure on Bar Biturique...psyched!

superb and tricky warm up...

cool route! nice holds and a little run out...

felt effortless...nice to get started in the enduro game...25 metres and all the way overhanging and rad!

simply stunning!

superb warm up!

skip all the bad holds on the upper part, just take the big ones...nice boulder to good holds to a deceptive finish...rad! preclipping more than the first bolt on this is cheating!

epic...every time again...

did it probably about a dozen times this trip...so good! props to Daniel for hooking this up last day, last minute!

like the holds...good warm up!

pretty good...athletic thuggery on good pockets...would be two stars if the first part wasn´t a little bit gritty...onsighted the upper part but knew the crux from Lonesome Ranger II...can´t count this as an onsight...

it´s a link up...first bolt of Joy Boy, then two bolts of Stinkefinger, then three bolts of Aschenputtel and then left into Ali Gamba crux...a contrived trainer that avoids all the possible no hand rests but has good moves...done with the sector, time to move on!

talked to Hub and got some lowdown...actually turns out I did it second go...hard newly bolted extension will make for the full line, even though I personally don´t like the moves too much...pumpy! this one is essentially gonna be a good trainer!

long and tricky...

second ascent minutes after Rob...really nice pinch boulder problem! how´s about sending it before jumping to conclusions? can´t see why this shouldn´t have been bolted!

fun warm up...

first go after rechecking my sequence...nice and dry...

well, I don´t wanna repeat warm ups all the time...

it´s a pile...

should have onsighted this...quite pumpy...

sweet! was my first 7a back in 2003, kinda cool...Meredith could send this...

total class pinching on tufas with coccasionally thrown in jugs...sweet!

polished jugs...nice moves though...

well...though one...people seem to chicken out right into the unknown 6b...straight up on pinches is the way to go...satisfied!

pretty good enduro combi...neither flash nor onsight, knew both parts...Yauarete into Cremasure...not pumped...endurance game begins!

very psyched...cleaned it and did it...really good if it gets done a little more often...rad slopers! Meredith fell and shocked me...fortunately just a sprain!

pretty amazing juggy crack!

ultra classic and super sandbagged! pretty rad!

completely amazing...the full pitch...a king line!

if you don´t climb on pockets too often, you almost forget how good it is...

completely amazing warm up!

pretty good endurance route, going to the belay of Dornröschen... missed the onsight...psyched for the full thing...

I was surprised! quite a good one!

slopey! better than the original...

well, it´s so not my style...crimpy and techy to the max...nearly slipped twice on the send...probably didn´t look half as solid as Daniel who should have done it as well...

mhmm...balancy crux! didn´t onsight, whatever...nice to have climbed at least something despite the forecast and the coming thunderstorm...no pain anymore after the sunspot removal surgery...onwards from here!

aka The Sloper Eliminate...it´s an eliminate, okay...but it climbs well...slopey! goes down to 7A after breakage!

hiked up at 6.30 am to avoid the heat and man, that made a difference! nice to bag this before the sunspot removal surgery related break...have no clue about the grade, it´s pretty much campusing a slopey rail trying to get as much out of the footholds there are as possible...will have to repeat Boulderbrothers to compare!

needs some more cleaning, then it will be quite good...start sitting with both hands at the pocket and go right to a crimp...pull into the slab and climb straight up using a sinker slot and some crimpers to gain a righthand slot...top out

in one pitch! pretty epic rig of 40 metres! that crux is tricky! skipped the last bolt after trying for ages to clip it...rope drag to the max...quite an adventure!

very cool arete! sweet compression...don´t fall at the second bolt or you´re screwed! hooking works, as usual...

every time again...warming up! hiked up in the rain, then climbed the whole day...I love this place, king lines all over!

Yap, I really like to sandbag...clicked first go after rechecking the sequence...total class! not a bit pumped, that´s good!

did it again....had to revise my judgement...flows!

pretty good warm up...pumpy and nice moves!

props to Rob for onsighting this rig...pretty tricky, even though it clicked second go and I wasn´t pumped - it has a kneebar no hand rest! considering this is 30 metres long, I seem to be building up endurance...I like. would be better if it actually stopped at the beginning of the slab.

one of the best at the crag...psyched I could flash this one...like it! no more log-booking on 8a.nu from this point onwards, that page sucks! psyched to have found this option to keep a logbook instead...

pretty long and epic...second go and I wasn´t pumped, that means I´m building up endurance and I like that! would be better if it stopped at the beginning of the slab!

pretty sweet compression! should have done it the sunday before but fell from the top like a beached whale...I´m falling in love with this place...

pinches and slopers...tricky, long and really cool

nice one! pleased this went onsight...would have never guessed the day would be good, considering the clouds and the general forecast this morning...quality line and moves, pumpy!

good one...one try while it was seeping last time, today it was dry...click! D. was so close...

average warm up...it was dry...

mhmm...the first move is the crux, climbing the direct start...fell on the onsight, found a mono and it clicked after another deadpoint gone wrong...for sure isn´t 7b! quality climb though!

pretty good and pumpy...quite nice to dispatch this onsight...would have never guessed the weather would hold...it did! rad day!

good...felt strong on the extension...this might click pretty soon...next Thursday I´ll hopefully be on!

Hans is definately good at finding new sequences...makes my way a contrived way...spoils the move a bit, though...

tricky little bastard!

now that mantle is cool!

pretty magical how FAs name themselves...manteling I almost stepped on a Bumblebee...start with a lefthand jug and a crimper and make a big move to a left hand crimper...then lock the crimper off and go for the right hand slot at the lipp...tops out, quite a sweet addition to the area...

aka Somersault...did one hill down when the crimper broke...all shook up! start at the jug, then climb straight up using the pocket and the sidepull/crimper for the left

took a lot of cleaning to get the top out done...start at the crimper rail and do a big move to a jug...reach for the lip and traverse the lip to a topout shared with Bumblebee

crimpy...psyched to find this one pretty easy this time...

nice line and interesting moves...high!

nice dynamic one mover...grade is a joke...VO or max V1 in the Valley...

nice...for a warm up...grade? excuse me, this is doable in sneakers...

pretty good for a lowball...

average 7A my guess, could be 7A+ but 7B is a joke...nice compression, should have flashed it...like it, better than it looks

did it for a first time in 2003 during my first Zellerwand visit...

what? hard...very hard...harder than a lot of 6cs at the same crag in my opinion, took a fall and Hans cut his foot...damn!

took some time to figure it out...huge relief to do it fast...don´t want any long term projects right now...except for my bolted one, that is...for sure isn´t 7b+! case closed!

really good! bouldery and powerful, feels like 7a+ to me...probably the best rock in the whole area, extension was wet...line needs to be completed!

pretty tough this one, considering it was really wet...epic hike up in the snow...

every time again...

good endurance route...nice warm up...seems like I can onsight something...if it had better rock, this would be better! proj. is within reach!

two fun boulder problems with a no hand rest in between...should have flashed it...not 7a+ compared to Schleier, Frankenjura or anywhere in France

nice, quality rock...good warm down...fun dyno!

really good! tops out! like it...would have never guessed this was that good! put up more problems like that please...we need a new spot!

fun slopey arete...technical and tricky! slipped on the flash...freaked out and got pissed at myself... which of course meant that I blew my next goes as well:) best 6A in the BRCM...

kinda contrived but I don´t care...I was training and couldn´t go somewhere else...tension problem and power endurance...goes down to soft 7A+ after breakage!

I suck at dynos right now, so I blew my flash attempt trying to dyno to the lip...anyway...would be V2 max in the Valley...so I´m going with this...the cold is gone, finally...

wanted it...especially after some tool of a local pissed me off...after climbing with positive people in the US for the past summer, this kinda ruined my day...gave the finger to that fucker when I sent it my way and it still didn´t feel right...at least I managed to win against my anger and kept in together...after being down with the cold for 4 weeks, I personally would say V5 but I´ll go with V4...

stellar and scary highball arete/free solo...great day with Austin, Tim and Betty...did it again to have a video...

Tim`s first highball...ticked it for him and he sent...congrats! nice but not as classic as Pelican

essentially a solo...also the down climb...the ambiance and the Schist holds leave me amazed!

hard...and good...and sharp...full on compression and very tricky...very rewarding when I finally solved this mini puzzle...wholly mammoth polish rules!

crimpy...razor sharp...didn`t expect anything and that`s key...the top out is awesome...turn around and face the Pacific...stellar! feel myself getting in shape...thanks for a wonderful day at Goat Rock to Austin, Betty and Tim

polished to the max...slipped a couple of times last time, kept it together this time...Nat´s Traverse, I´m gonna come back in 2010 and crush you...I don´t know why, it´s a pile, but I´m just stubborn!

should have flashed it...just one move...

fun compression...flashed it basically but a couple of weeks ago I did something a couple of guys labeled The Bear Hug Problem...basically Black Plaque with a different start so no flash...

nice warm up arete

nice pocket moves and then good crimpers

very good Frankenjura style overhang on pockets and pinches, not scary if there are pads around

so fun! dynamic and athletic...do the move or spin off into poison oak...the knee hurt on the sitdown extension, so this was the better option...very psyched to be bouldering again...

links the crimpy start of The Crippler into the highball topout of The King`s Throne...nice

absolutely amazing...I`m so happy...thanx to Jose and Magnolia for the spotting, a true king line, tall, athletic and committing, I really wanted this one...and got it, which was important for me since I wanted to send something proud and outstanding in the Valley...two days later I repeated it to hook up Brian with the beta...and cruised it. I can climb a lot harder if I find something that is my style! The linkup into Behave is RAD and HARD! Psyched to return...Goodbye Valley for this time...

slipped on the flash...damn! Candyland is cool...

good and a little bit sketchy due to the mossy topout...got The Diamond all figured out and almost linked in an hour...psyched!

so good! thought I could flash it, the fool I am...has a BIG lock off at the crux...

very good...full on compression on slopers and pinches followed by nice moves to a dicey top out...

good warm up...the whole Bishop experience is weird, though...

fun...nice roof on Grandpa...flows! If only the rest of the days would flow as well...being alone and with one pad in Bishop sucks...on the move to the Valley, the solitude is driving me nuts...

high and slightly wet from the tide...great feeling

nice warm up...

good and pretty damn hard, since it has years of polish on it...straightforward roof crimping, great day with Reed at the beach, thanks for the beta and the lowdown...

good, third go or something...burly, dynamic and athletic to a high and slightly scary finish...just as I like it...

superb warm up...

the first move is hard! sucker! took me longer than Spirit Slips Away! AWESOME PROBLEM!

another world class Lake Tahoe line...

probably one of the best cruiser highballs I`ve climbed...high and so classic

memorable end of the day problem...highball slab, deadpointed to the lip and would have totally crashed if there hadn`t been the jug...I guess Ben was scared...

post birthday present...so very psyched...skip all the bad holds, just take the big ones...superb crimping and sloping and amazing all out lunge for the hidden top out, so good and so cool

nice compression moves, felt easy today...not harder than The Ramp Sit

cool moves and fun top out...

better flash it...it`s a telling name...

sweet...actually has holds, so doable with 35 Celsius

pretty much perfect...topped out in total trance...kinda scary with one pad and all by myself...

adds some punch, did it first try but I knew the first part and so this is no flash...

cool...nice warm up

nice slab...

cool arete...highball!

my first valley problem

perfect sloper problem...damn good, Euro grades are shit soft...Yosemite is the thing!

pretty perfect highball...that slab is scary...one of my most intense moments ever in climbing...I`m going with Matt Wilder`s Yosemite guide...8a`s version of the V-grading scale is wrong and not corresponding to any American guide book...

pretty nice highball...tall and cool

nice warm up highball...

actually a free solo...tall, easy and great

really nice...good, sharp and high

brilliant...nice moves, nice evening...felt like 6b to me so I go with it...

total classic highball with jugs...freaking high and scary, especially with one pad...

straight up without the jugs to the left...

cool traverse with a hard mantle

hard...fucked up the slab...cool route...hard!

balancy...good route...had a hung-at-a-bolt-ascent during my second Frankenjura trip 2003, proj. done;)

very good...pockets en masse...first done in 2002 but didn`t have an 8a. account back then...how could I live without it???

hard! slapped to nothing on the onsight-damn! perfect route, much better than Emanuelle

very cool, nice move to a pinch and a big one after that...like it, quality

no onsight since I tried it in 2003 when I came to the Frankenjura, hangdogged it back then...quality warm up

probably the best 6a+ I´ve done in the Frankenjura so far...completely amazing