Mucho Pyscho.

about 6 years ago

Jeez there's a lot of shit going down right now! Good stuff mostly. It seems like every time I turn around somebody else just did something amazing in the climbing world. Or at least in my little slice of it.

Here's a list of things that I'm psyched on:

1. Ryan Palo just sent Just Do It, 5.14c at Smith Rock. Crazy loads of effort on his part. I sporadically follow his blog and it was cool to see his journey with the route. I don't know Ryan well but I've talked with him a few times and climbed in the same areas as him in the past so it's cool to see a local take down this rig. Cheers Ryan.
2. Caldwell and Honnold's recent link-up in the valley. So sick. I know this guy Greg that was actually on Half Dome (and got passed) when Mr. 9 Fingers and Mr. Casual were finishing it up. Greg mentioned it in his blog. That would be surreal.
3. Earlier this month I sent The Crumbling, 5.12a in two goes. Hung the draws on the on-sight attempt and hung twice. I had an internal debate with myself while pretending to listen to my friend talk about something and finally decided that I should sack-up and just do it on lead. No TR rehearsals. I know the moves. I did the crux first go. Just send the thing already! So I rested some, and then fired the line. It was sick! Fully pumped and fully at my limit for that attempt. It felt awesome. It's such a cool feeling fighting for it and reaching the chains with absolutely nothing left. A couple days later I sent a mini project for the season: Honey Bear Hooka, V6. Needless to say, May has been pretty good for me. And I never have a good spring season. I guess all this training is paying off.
4. Earlier this year I ventured out to an unclimbed face of a local boulder. This boulder already had a few problems on it, but one side remained untouched. This face was about 20' tall at the apex, and shaped roughly like a triangle, being large at the bottom and angling in to a point at the top. Although I found this face aesthetic and full of holds, it had remained untouched largely due to the carpets of moss and ferns clinging to the side. As well, there were several blackberry bushes, small trees, and small boulders that needed to be moved to provide a relatively level landing and a safe walk-off. So basically, no one had climbed this boulder because it required work to clean it. I put in the work and was rewarded with a fun V1 first accent that I mentioned here back in March. Spencer Williams spearheaded a guidebook about the area and I emailed Spencer to let him know the face had been climbed. He recently updated his fantastic blog about Carver bouldering and was gracious enough to mention my efforts. Thanks Spencer!
5. Western Gold. A sweet bouldering video that I had the chance to preview recently thanks to an awesome friend. This video tracks through some of the western sweet spots for bouldering, following the film maker himself - Alex Savage - and other local developers and talented folks. This video has already been reviewed extensively by others. Here's the best reviews I agree with and respect: Lauren Bell and Peter Beal, and here's the trailer.

You can read more from my blog here (more pictures too):

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